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Chaos / Volume 22 / Issue 1 / REGULAR ARTICLES

Chaos 22, 013130 (2012); http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/1.3693047 (10 pages)

strange beta: An assistance system for indoor rock climbing route setting

C. Phillips, L. Becker, and E. Bradley

University of Colorado, Computer Science Department, Boulder, Colorado 80303, USA

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(Received 14 October 2011; accepted 16 February 2012; published online 13 March 2012)

This paper applies the mathematics of chaos to the task of designing indoor rock-climbing routes. Chaotic variation has been used to great advantage on music and dance, but the challenges here are quite different, beginning with the representation. We present a formalized system for transcribing rock climbing problems and then describe a variation generator that is designed to support human route-setters in designing new and interesting climbing problems. This variation generator, termed strange beta, uses chaos to introduce novelty. We validated this approach with a large blinded study in a commercial climbing gym, in cooperation with experienced climbers and expert route setters. The results show that strange beta can help a human setter produce routes that are at least as good as, and in some cases better than, those produced in the traditional manner.

© 2012 American Institute of Physics

Article Outline

  1. INTRODUCTION
  2. RELATED WORK
  3. ABOUT INDOOR CLIMBING
  4. strange beta: OVERVIEW
  5. ROUTE DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE
  6. GENERATING CHAOTIC VARIATIONS
  7. SPELUNKING FOR INITIAL CONDITIONS
  8. EXPERIMENT AND ANALYSIS
    1. Experimental design
    2. Survey instrument
    3. Climb preference
    4. Possible correlating factors
    5. Results summary
    6. The setters’ experience
  9. CONCLUSIONS AND FUTURE WORK

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KEYWORDS and PACS

Keywords

chaos

PACS

ARTICLE DATA

Digital Object Identifier
http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/1.3693047

PUBLICATION DATA

ISSN

1054-1500 (print)  
1089-7682 (online)

Publisher

$abstract.society.value is a Member of CrossRef American Institute of Physics

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    References

    E. Bradley and J. Stuart, Chaos 8, 800 (1998)CHAOEH000008000004000800000001.

    D. S. Dabby, Chaos 6, 95 (1996)CHAOEH000006000002000095000001.


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